Wednesday, November 25, 2009

It's Sinny Mite

It's not the sort of thing one should confess. It's the sort of thing that nobody would ever find out in any other way. I got lost in the tropical jungle of Tanna the other night - despite having the biggest stars in the world Evvah! and a growling volcano to give me directions! I just popped out of my little bamboo and banana leaf hut for a drink of water and ... got horribly, horribly lost. So much so that after at least half an hour of padding around in the dark, convinced I recognised each coconut palm (which I did because I was playing hephalumps), I wrapped myself in my khikoi under a towering fern/palm (with no nuts to drop on my head) and went to sleep until it was light. Woke, to find a puppy dog curled up with me, grinning its head off as it pointed to my hut hiding in the shrubbery 20 metres away. I'm glad the nice lady swept my footprints away and so nobody will ever know.

We flew over the community formerly known as Dillon's Bay on the way back to Port Vila. Looking down at the narrow strip of settlement along the banks of the Williams River, I wished them well. All those smiling faces.

Last night of the tour was as all-consuming as all the others. The legal fraternity and drinks, fortunately not until very late as they were all working today. When I got back to the Room With(out) a View, old Tannie Esther and another of her grinning, on the ball grandsons (Luke, this time, I think) were sitting on the Veranda (with a view) regaling my fellow guests with the events. She'd popped around to say goodbye and make triply sure that I didn't want to take 3 mats, a banyan tree and banana lap-lap with me. I didn't, but was able to press her to accept a Kuru Kalendar.

And here I am, not far off the Rocks in Sydney. Sleek, rich, smug Sydney. Are the Islanders right when they say they are "richer" in being able to feed themselves without needing work or money? Or would they hanker for all this material excess? Having seen the differences between Erro and Vila, I suspect the latter!

The budget having been stretched further than it should (even a minor celeb with free bus rides etc, essential stuff - like beer for lawyers - costs), I followed the guides to the backbackers in Kings Cross. Ye Goddes! 5 flights of steep stairs (I thought only Amsterdam did that to me) to a small room with 4 double bunks, littered from floor to ceiling with other peoples' clothes, appliances (including a huge TV playing a documentary on Botswana) and um well kind of stuff I didn't want to investigate too far. David, an alcoholic of indeterminate age, introduced me to Craig (a youngish chinese gentleman who apparently spends his time doped up watching the TV) and um Sandy? Something like that. A bottle blonde well past her sell-by date but still selling. Strangely, I feel that my suitcase and dirty clothes are safe with them. Everything else is in Man Friday on my shoulder.

Despite what I have said about sleekness and material smugness, it is quite easy to spend whole days of entertainment without parting with too much cash in big cities. As long as you avoid tourist spots and shopping for anything other than a c&t. Which I can do. When the sun is shining. I am really not sure about the USA in winter. But that's next week. We'll see.

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